This Section Covers6.1 – Driving Combination Vehicles Safely6.2 – Combination Vehicle Air Brakes6.3 – Antilock Brake Systems6.4 – Coupling and Uncoupling6.5 – Inspecting a Combination VehicleThis section provides information needed to pass the tests for combination vehicles (tractor-trailer, doubles, triples, straight truck with trailer). The information is only to give you the minimum knowledge needed for driving common combination vehicles. You should also study if you need to pass the test for doubles and triples. 6.1 – Driving Combination Vehicles SafelyCombination vehicles are usually heavier, longer, and require more driving skill than single commercial vehicles.
This means that drivers of combination vehicles need more knowledge and skill than drivers of single vehicles. This section, has important safety factors that apply specifically to combination vehicles. 6.1.1 – Rollover RisksMore than half of truck driver deaths in accidents are the result of truck rollovers. When more cargo is piled up in a truck, the 'center of gravity' moves higher up from the road and the truck becomes easier to turn over.
Fully loaded rigs are 10 times more likely to roll over in an accident than empty rigs.The following 2 things will help you prevent rollover-keep the cargo as close to the ground as possible, and drive slowly around turns. Keeping cargo low is even more important in combination vehicles than in straight trucks. Also, keep the load centered on your rig. If the load is to one side so it makes a trailer lean, a rollover is more likely. Make sure your cargo is centered and spread out as much as possible. (Cargo distribution is covered in of this handbook.)Rollovers happen when you turn too fast. Drive slowly around corners, on ramps, and off ramps.
Avoid quick lane changes, especially when fully loaded. 6.1.2 – Steer GentlyTrucks with trailers have a dangerous 'crack-the-whip' effect. When you make a quick lane change, the crack-the-whip effect can turn the trailer over. There are many accidents where only the trailer has overturned.' Rearward amplification' causes the crack-the-whip effect. Figure 6.1 shows 8 types of combination vehicles and the rearward amplification each has in a quick lane change. Rigs with the least crack-the-whip effect are shown at the top and those with the most, at the bottom.
Rearward amplification of 2.0 in the chart means that the rear trailer is twice as likely to turn over as the tractor. You can see that triples have a rearward amplification of 3.5. This means you can roll the last trailer of triples 3.5 times as easily as a 5-axle tractor.Steer gently and smoothly when you are pulling trailers. If you make a sudden movement with your steering wheel, your trailer could tip over. Follow far enough behind other vehicles (at least 1 second for each 10 feet of your vehicle length, plus another second if going over 40 mph). Look far enough down the road to avoid being surprised and having to make a sudden lane change.
At night, drive slowly enough to see obstacles with your headlights before it is too late to change lanes or stop gently. Slow down to a safe speed before going into a turn.Figure 6.1 6.1.3 – Brake EarlyControl your speed whether fully loaded or empty. Large combination vehicles take longer to stop when they are empty than when they are fully loaded.
When lightly loaded, the very stiff suspension springs and strong brakes give poor traction and make it very easy to lock up the wheels. Your trailer can swing out and strike other vehicles.
Your tractor can jackknife very quickly. You also must be very careful about driving 'bobtail' tractors (tractors without semitrailers). Tests have shown that bobtails can be very hard to stop smoothly. It takes them longer to stop than a tractor-semitrailer loaded to maximum gross weight.In any combination rig, allow lots of following distance and look far ahead, so you can brake early. Do not be caught by surprise and have to make a 'panic' stop. 6.1.4 – Railroad-Highway CrossingsRailroad-highway crossings can also cause problems, particularly when pulling trailers with low underneath clearance.These trailers can get stuck on raised crossings:. Low slung units (lowboy, car carrier, moving van, possum-belly livestock trailer).
Single-axle tractor pulling a long trailer with its landing gear set to accommodate a tandem-axle tractor.If for any reason you get stuck on the tracks, get out of the vehicle and away from the tracks. Check signposts or signal housing at the crossing for emergency notification information. Call 911 or another emergency number. Give the location of the crossing using all identifiable landmarks, especially the DOT number, if posted. 6.1.5 – Prevent Trailer SkidsWhen the wheels of a trailer lock up, the trailer will tend to swing around.
This is more likely to happen when the trailer is empty or lightly loaded. This type of jackknife is often called a 'trailer jackknife.'
See Figure 6.2.The procedure for stopping a trailer skid is:. Recognize the Skid. The earliest and best way to recognize that the trailer has started to skid is by seeing it in your mirrors. Any time you apply the brakes hard, check the mirrors to make sure the trailer is staying where it should be.
Once the trailer swings out of your lane, it's very difficult to prevent a jackknife.Figure 6.2. Stop Using the Brake. Release the brakes to get traction back. Do not use the trailer hand brake (if you have one) to 'straighten out the rig.' This is the wrong thing to do since the brakes on the trailer wheels caused the skid in the first place. Once the trailer wheels grip the road again, the trailer will start to follow the tractor and straighten out.6.1.6 – Turn WideWhen a vehicle goes around a corner, the rear wheels follow a different path than the front wheels. This is called off-tracking or 'cheating.'
Figure 6.3 shows how off-tracking causes the path followed by a tractor to be wider than the rig itself. Longer vehicles will offtrack more.
The rear wheels of the powered unit (truck or tractor) will off-track some, and the rear wheels of the trailer will off-track even more. If there is more than one trailer, the rear wheels of the last trailer will offtrack the most. Steer the front end wide enough around a corner so the rear end does not run over the curb, pedestrians, etc. However, keep the rear of your vehicle close to the curb.
This will stop other drivers from passing you on the right. If you cannot complete your turn without entering another traffic lane, turn wide as you complete the turn. This is better than swinging wide to the left before starting the turn because it will keep other drivers from passing you on the right.
See Figure 6.4.Figure 6.3Figure 6.4 6.1.7 – Backing With a Trailer.When backing a car, straight truck, or bus, turn the top of the steering wheel in the direction you want to go. When backing a trailer, turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction. Once the trailer starts to turn, turn the wheel the other way to follow the trailer.Whenever you back up with a trailer, try to position your vehicle so you can back in a straight line. If you must back on a curved path, back toward the driver's side so you can see. See Figure 6.5.Look at Your Path. Look at your line of travel before you begin. Get out and walk around the vehicle.
Check your clearance to the sides and overhead, in and near the path of your vehicle.Use Mirrors on Both Sides. Check the outside mirrors on both sides frequently. Get out of the vehicle and re-inspect your path if you are unsure.Back Slowly. This will let you make corrections before you get too far off course.Correct Drift Immediately. As soon as you see the trailer getting off the proper path, correct it by turning the top of the steering wheel in the direction of the drift.Pull Forward. When backing a trailer, make pull-ups to re-position your vehicle as needed.Figure 6.5SUBSECTION 6.1Test Your Knowledge.
What 2 things are important to prevent rollover?. When you turn suddenly while pulling doubles, which trailer is most likely to turn over?. Why should you not use the trailer hand brake to straighten out a jackknifing trailer?. What is off-tracking?. When you back a trailer, you should position your vehicle so you can back in a curved path to the driver's side.
True or False?. What type of trailers can get stuck on railroad-highway crossings?These questions may be on your test. If you cannot answer them all, re-read Subsection 6.1.6.2 – Combination Vehicle Air BrakesYou should study: Air Brakes before reading this.
In combination vehicles, the braking system has parts to control the trailer brakes, in addition to the parts described in Section 5. These parts are described below. 6.2.1 – Trailer Hand ValveThe trailer hand valve (also called the trolley valve or johnson bar) works the trailer brakes. The trailer hand valve should be used only to test the trailer brakes. Do not use it in driving because of the danger of making the trailer skid. The foot brake sends air to all of the brakes on the vehicle, including the trailer(s). There is much less danger of causing a skid or jackknife when using just the foot brake.Never use the hand valve for parking because all the air might leak out, unlocking the brakes (in trailers that do not have spring brakes).
Always use the parking brakes when parking. If the trailer does not have spring brakes, use wheel chocks to keep the trailer from moving. 6.2.2 – Tractor Protection ValveThe tractor protection valve keeps air in the tractor or truck brake system should the trailer break away or develop a bad leak. The tractor protection valve is controlled by the 'trailer air supply' control valve in the cab. The control valve allows you to open and shut the tractor protection valve. The tractor protection valve will close automatically if air pressure is low (in the range of 20 to 45 psi).
When the tractor protection valve closes, it stops any air from going out of the tractor. It also lets the air out of the trailer emergency line. This causes the trailer emergency brakes to come on, with possible loss of control. (Emergency brakes are covered later.) 6.2.3 – Trailer Air Supply ControlThe trailer air supply control on newer vehicles is a red 8-sided knob, which you use to control the tractor protection valve. You push it in to supply the trailer with air, and pull it out to shut the air off and put on the trailer emergency brakes.
The valve will pop out (which closes the tractor protection valve) when the air pressure drops into the range of 20 to 45 psi. Tractor protection valve controls or 'emergency' valves on older vehicles may not operate automatically. There may be a lever rather than a knob. The 'normal' position is used for pulling a trailer. The 'emergency' position is used to shut the air off and put on the trailer emergency brakes. 6.2.4 – Trailer Air LinesEvery combination vehicle has 2 air lines, the service line and emergency line.
They run between each vehicle (tractor to trailer, trailer to dolly, dolly to second trailer, etc.)Service Air Line. The service line (also called the control line or signal line) carries air, which is controlled by the foot brake or trailer hand brake. Depending on how hard you press the foot brake or hand valve, the pressure in the service line will similarly change. The service line is connected to relay valves.
These valves allow the trailer brakes to be applied more quickly than would otherwise be possible.Emergency Air Line. The emergency line (also called the supply line) has 2 purposes. First, it supplies air to the trailer air tanks. Second, the emergency line controls the emergency brakes on combination vehicles. Loss of air pressure in the emergency line causes the trailer emergency brakes to come on. The pressure loss could be caused by a trailer breaking loose and thus tearing apart the emergency air hose. Or it could be caused by a hose, metal tubing, or other part breaking and letting the air out.
When the emergency line loses pressure, it also causes the tractor protection valve to close (the air supply knob will pop out). Emergency lines are often coded with the color red (red hose, red couplers, or other red parts) to keep from getting them mixed up with the blue service line.6.2.5 – Hose Couplers (Glad Hands)Glad hands are coupling devices used to connect the service and emergency air lines from the truck or tractor to the trailer. The couplers have a rubber seal, which prevents air from escaping.
Clean the couplers and rubber seals before a connection is made. When connecting the glad hands, press the two seals together with the couplers at a 90 degree angle to each other. A turn of the glad hand attached to the hose will join and lock the couplers.When coupling, make sure to couple the proper glad hands together.
Colors are sometimes used to help avoid mistakes. Blue is used for the service lines and red for the emergency (supply) lines. Sometimes, metal tags are attached to the lines with the words 'service' and 'emergency' stamped on them. See Figure 6.6.Figure 6.6If you cross the air lines, supply air will be sent to the service line instead of going to charge the trailer air tanks.
Air will not be available to release the trailer spring brakes (parking brakes). If the spring brakes do not release when you push the trailer air supply control, check the air line connections.Older trailers do not have spring brakes.
If the air supply in the trailer air tank has leaked away, there will be no emergency brakes and the trailer wheels will turn freely. If you cross the air lines, you can drive away but you will not have trailer brakes.
This would be very dangerous. Always test the trailer brakes before driving with the hand valve or by pulling the air supply (tractor protection valve) control. Pull gently against them in a low gear to make sure the brakes work.Some vehicles have 'dead end' or dummy couplers to that hoses may be attached to when they are not in use. This will prevent water and dirt from getting into the coupler and the air lines. Use the dummy couplers when the air lines are not connected to a trailer. If there are no dummy couplers, the glad hands can sometimes be locked together (depending on the couplings).
It is very important to keep the air supply clean. 6.2.6 – Trailer Air TanksEach trailer and converter dolly has one or more air tanks. They are filled by the emergency (supply) line from the tractor. They provide the air pressure used to operate trailer brakes.
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Air pressure is sent from the air tanks to the brakes by relay valves.The pressure in the service line tells how much pressure the relay valves should send to the trailer brakes. The pressure in the service line is controlled by the brake pedal (and the trailer hand brake).It is important that you do not let water and oil build up in the air tanks. If you do, the brakes may not work correctly. Each tank has a drain valve on it and you should drain each tank every day.
If your tanks have automatic drains, they will keep most moisture out. You should still open the drains to make sure. 6.2.7 – Shut-Off ValvesShut-off valves are used in the service and supply air lines at the back of trailers used to tow other trailers. These valves permit closing the air lines off when another trailer is not being towed. You must check that all shut-off valves are in the open position except the ones at the back of the last trailer, which must be closed. 6.2.8 – Trailer Service, Parking, and Emergency BrakesNewer trailers have spring brakes just like trucks and truck tractors. However, converter dollies and trailers built before 1975 are not required to have spring brakes.
Those that do not have spring brakes have emergency brakes, which work from the air stored in the trailer air tank. The emergency brakes come on whenever air pressure in the emergency line is lost. These trailers have no parking brake. The emergency brakes come on whenever the air supply knob is pulled out or the trailer is disconnected. A major leak in the emergency line will cause the tractor protection valve to close and the trailer emergency brakes to come on.
But the brakes will hold only as long as there is air pressure in the trailer air tank. Eventually, the air will leak away and there will be no brakes. Therefore, it is very important for safety that you use wheel chocks when you park trailers without spring brakes.You may not notice a major leak in the service line until you try to put the brakes on. Then, the air loss from the leak will lower the air tank pressure quickly.
If it goes low enough, the trailer emergency brakes will come on.SUBSECTION 6.2Test Your Knowledge. Why should you not use the trailer hand valve while driving?. Describe what the trailer air supply control does. Describe what the service line is for. What is the emergency air line for?. Why should you use chocks when parking a trailer without spring brakes?.
Where are shut-off valves?These questions may be on your test. If you cannot answer them all, re-read Subsection 6.2.6.3 – Antilock Brake Systems 6.3.1 – Trailers Required to Have ABS.
All trailers and converter dollies built on or after March 1, 1998, are required to have ABS. However, many trailers and converter dollies built before this date have been voluntarily equipped with ABS. Trailers will have yellow ABS malfunction lamps on the left side, either on the front or rear corner. See Figure 6.7. Dollies manufactured on or after March 1, 1998, are required to have a lamp on the left side.
In the case of vehicles manufactured before the required date, it may be difficult to tell if the unit is equipped with ABS. Look under the vehicle for the ECU and wheel speed sensor wires coming from the back of the brakes.Figure 6.7 6.3.2 – Braking With ABS. ABS is an addition to your normal brakes. It does not decrease or increase your normal braking capability. ABS only activates when wheels are about to lock up.
ABS does not necessarily shorten your stopping distance, but it helps you keep the vehicle under control during hard braking. ABS helps you avoid wheel lock up. The computer senses impending lockup, reduces the braking pressure to a safe level, and you maintain control. ABS on only the trailer, or even on only 1 axle, still gives you more control over the vehicle during braking.
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When only the trailer has ABS, the trailer is less likely to swing out, but if you lose steering control or start a tractor jackknife, let up on the brakes (if you can safely do so) until you gain control. When you drive a tractor-trailer combination with ABS, you should brake as you always have. In other words:— Use only the braking force necessary to stop safely and stay in control.— Brake the same way, regardless of whether you have ABS on the tractor, the trailer, or both.— As you slow down, monitor your tractor and trailer and back off the brakes (if it is safe to do so) to stay in control. Remember, if your ABS malfunctions, you still have regular brakes.
Drive normally, but get the system serviced soon. ABS will not allow you to drive faster, follow more closely, or drive less carefully.6.4 – Coupling and UncouplingKnowing how to couple and uncouple correctly is basic to safe operation of combination vehicles. Wrong coupling and uncoupling can be very dangerous. General coupling and uncoupling steps are listed below. There are differences between different rigs, so learn the details of coupling and uncoupling the truck(s) you will operate. 6.4.1 – Coupling Tractor-Semitrailers Step 1: Inspecting the Fifth-Wheel.
Check for damaged/missing parts. Check to see that the mounting to the tractor is secure, no cracks in the frame, etc. Be sure that the fifth-wheel plate is greased as required.